Savannah’s Squares: What the Brochure Doesn’t Tell You

Savannah has 22 squares. Tourists photograph them. Locals walk dogs in them. And almost nobody — except a handful of us who’ve spent years digging into the actual records — knows what most of them were actually built for.

Here’s the short version: James Oglethorpe didn’t design them to be pretty. He designed them to be tactical.

A city built for war

The original 1733 city plan was a military grid. Each square served as a parade ground — a central muster point where militia could assemble quickly. The streets around them were wide enough to move troops and artillery. The surrounding lots were assigned with intentional priority: trust lots for civic buildings on the east and west, tithing lots for housing flanking the north and south.

Oglethorpe was a soldier first and a city planner second. The whole layout was a defense system disguised as a neighborhood.

The ones worth slowing down for

Calhoun Square is the only square that retains all four of its original surrounding structures. Most visitors blow past it because there’s no fountain, no famous statue, nothing Instagram-obvious. That’s exactly why you should stop there.

Monterey Square has the Mercer-Williams House on its southern flank — yes, that house, the one from Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil. But the square itself has a monument to Count Casimir Pulaski, a Polish nobleman who died in the Siege of Savannah in 1779 fighting for American independence. His remains may or may not actually be buried beneath it. That’s still being debated.

Ellis Square was almost lost permanently. In 1954, the city paved it over to build a parking garage. It took until 2010 to restore it. Savannah almost erased one of Oglethorpe’s original squares for a parking lot. Let that sink in.

The tour guide’s honest recommendation

Don’t try to hit all 22 in a day. Pick three or four. Sit in them. Read the markers. Watch how the light comes through the live oaks in the late afternoon. Savannah’s squares are the city’s living rooms — they were designed to gather people, and they still do. Just understand what you’re actually sitting inside of when you’re there.

A tactical military grid that became one of the most beautiful urban designs in the world. Oglethorpe would probably be annoyed that we just put benches in them.